Iga Ueno Castle with a storyteller. We will introduce in detail the history of the chalk castle, which was selected as one of Japan's 100 famous castles.

"Iga Ueno Castle" is located in Ueno Marunouchi IgaCity Mie Prefecture.

The current castle tower of Iga Ueno Castle is a wooden mock castle tower built in the Showa era, completed in 1933 by Representative Katsu Kawasaki with his own funds as a base for promoting culture and industry in the Iga region. It is an echelon-style Hirayama Castle with a composite castle tower, which is also known as a cultural and industrial castle.

It is also called Hakuhojo (Hakuhojo) due to its beautiful three-layered chalk structure, and has been selected as one of Japan's top 100 castles.

The Iga Ueno Castle you are aiming for is a 10-minute walk from Ueno City Station on the Iga Railway Iga Line, which was named ``Ninja City Station'' in February 2019.

So, we headed to Ninja City Station on the ninja train designed by Leiji Matsumoto, who is famous for ``Galaxy Express 999''.

There are ninjas lurking here and there at Ninja City Station.

There is also a bronze statue of MatsuoBasho, who was born in Iga Ueno City, and a bronze statue of Tetsuro and Maetel with the autograph of Leiji Matsumoto, who designed the ninja train.

We go to Iga Ueno Castle from the station through an underground passage, but this time we asked for a storyteller, so we headed to the meeting place, Danjiri Kaikan.

Storyteller-san are members of the ``Sightseeing Volunteer Igaue Storyteller Association'' who provide explanations and guides about the culture and history of Iga-Ueno at a low price.
In addition to Iga Ueno Castle, depending on the course, you can also learn about ninjas, MatsuoBasho, etc., so if you are interested in history and culture, we recommend asking a storyteller to guide you.

I headed to the Danjiri Hall, looking forward to hearing various stories from the storytellers.
At Danjiri Kaikan, there is a photo spot where you can transform into a ninja costume and take trick photos of yourself walking on the roof. (For details, please visit Danjiri Kaikan "Ninja Transformation Center")

The closest entrance from the station is where the Ueno Park Tourist Information Center is located, but after meeting up with the storyteller, we headed for the park entrance on the west side of the stone pavement, about a 5-minute walk from the Danjiri Kaikan.

A little further up from there, there was a stone monument that read ``Historical Site Ueno Castle Ruins'' and a stone monument explaining Iga Ueno Castle.

Iga Ueno Castle is a flat mountain castle built on a hill at an altitude of 184 meters in the northern part of the Ueno Plateau, located almost in the center of the Ueno Basin. Compared to other castles, I think it's a relatively leisurely walk up to the castle tower.

A castle was not originally built on this site, but an old temple of the Shingon sect called Uenosan Heirakuji, which is said to have been built by Taira no Kiyomori.

In the Middle Ages, Iga was a land where temples and shrines had strong influence, and even though there was a lord of the country, he was powerless and was ruled by the Iga clan, including powerful clans.

However, in 1581 (Tensho 9), Oda Nobunaga attacked Iga, aiming to become a ruler of Japan, and Iga was almost completely wiped out. It is said that Heirakuji Temple was also destroyed and burnt down at this time.
(The historical story of this time was also depicted in the movie `` Shinobi no Kuni'' starring Arashi's Ohno-kun.)

During the Tensho Iga Rebellion, the Sengoku warlord Katsutoshi Takigawa devised strategies for the powerful clans of Iga, weakening their unity and contributing to victory, and built a fort on the site of Heirakuji Temple. It is said that he built the foundation of Iga Ueno Castle.

After the death of Oda Nobunaga, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, who aimed to unify the country, arranged his feudal lords around Osaka Castle.
At that time, Sadatsugu Tsutsui, the lord of Yamatokoriyama, became the first lord of the domain. Sadatsugu Tsutsui, who entered Iga in 1585, built a new castle to protect Osaka on the east side of the current Honmaru Square.
That was the beginning of Iga Ueno Castle. Sadatsugu Tsutsui built a castle town centered on the north side, which had been open since ancient times.

However, Sadatsugu Tsutsui could not remain as the lord of Ueno Castle for long.

In 1600 (Keicho 5th year), he sided with Tokugawa Ieyasu's eastern army at the Battle of Sekigahara, which divided the country, and Tokugawa Ieyasu granted him the territory of Iga, but he caused a commotion in his family and was forced to commit seppuku. It will be.

*Anto: In Japan's land private ownership system from the late ancient period to early modern times, the act of a lord guaranteeing and approving to his vassals the existence, continuation, and transfer of land rights and positions. (From Wikipedia)
*Keiki: A punishment imposed on samurai during the Edo period, reducing their status to commoners and confiscating their stipend and mansion. (From Wikipedia)

Therefore, Tokugawa Ieyasu made TakatoraTodo of Imabari, Iyo, the lord of both Iga and Ise, and had him rebuild Iga Ueno Castle in preparation for a decisive battle with the Toyotomi forces in Osaka Castle in the west.

TakatoraTodo, a famous castle builder, undertook major renovations to the castle, thinking that Anotsu Castle would be his residence in times of peace, and Iga Ueno Castle would be his residence in times of emergency.
By making use of the natural ground, the moat was deepened and the stone walls were designed to be high, and a five-story castle tower was planned with a high stone wall around 30 meters in height. He also moved the castle town to the south, transforming Iga Ueno Castle into a fully armed military town.

However, in 1612 (Keicho 17), the castle tower they had built collapsed due to a huge storm just before it was completed.

After that, Tokugawa Ieyasu's eastern army won the Battle of Osaka, and the Toyotomi clan in Osaka fell.
Although the castle tower was not rebuilt because there was no longer a need for a strong castle, the Todo clan established a castle residence on the ruins of the Tsutsui clan's castle and ruled Iga Province.

Furthermore, in 1873, many of the structures built on stone walls were demolished due to the Castle Abandonment Ordinance.

The current castle tower was built in 1935 by Katsu Kawasaki, a representative from Iga, who said, ``The castle of offense and defense may fall, but the castle of industry will remain immortal for as long as human life lasts.'' It is a mock castle tower made of a wooden structure that was reconstructed with the help of private funds and supporters based on our beliefs.

Before climbing the TakatoraTodo Todo Takatora.

Compared to the ``fan slope'' seen in the stone walls of Kiyomasa Kato, another master castle builder, TakatoraTodo 's stone walls have a straight-line appearance.

Nowadays, it rivals the height of Osaka Castle's tall stone wall, but at the time the castle was built, it was an unprecedented height.

There is a barrier placed to alert you to danger, but if you go to the edge, it seems like you will be sucked in. Be careful not to get too absorbed in taking photos and fall!

Can you see that the stone walls on both sides are slightly farther forward than the stone wall in the center?

This is a place created for Yokoya Kagari, who attacks intruders from the flank.

I wonder if even a ninja would be able to climb such a high stone wall, but this is a castle for emergencies. It must have been carefully designed.

This is a photo looking up at the high stone wall from below.

Approximately 30m in height = about 10 stories for an apartment building.

That's the height you can look up at.

Now let's finally climb the castle tower.

A large castle tower and a small castle tower with beautiful white walls are built on the castle tower base built by TakatoraTodo.

Since it is not a castle from the Sengoku period, Iga Ueno Castle may be unique in that it has an outer wall and a corridor, rather than a tower towering from the edge of the castle tower.

Enter the castle through the Yakuin gate between the large and small castle towers, and go to the small castle tower on the left.

There is a well called ``Shinobi no Ido'' inside the small castle tower.
This well was built when Ieyasu gave a secret order to Todo Takatora, saying, ``If the capture of Osaka Castle fails, I am prepared to confine myself to this castle with TakatoraTodo, so please build a castle where we can confine ourselves for three years.'' It is said that a well 90m deep was dug as a measure to cut off the water vein, and three tunnels were dug sideways from the well side to create loopholes.

It is also said that if the castle were to fall, ninjas could use this passage to infiltrate the castle and cause disturbances, hence the name ``Shinobi's Well.''

When you actually put your hand on it, you can feel a slight breeze rising, so there may really be a way out.

The technology of ancient people is amazing...

Also, next to the Shinobi TakatoraTodo attempted to build and the current castle tower are displayed side by side.

When you enter the main tower, you will be greeted by Lord TakatoraTodo and the mascot character Taiga-kun.

There was also a black-clad ninja who jumped onto a thick pillar.

On the 1st floor of the mock castle tower is Iga-Yaki, one of Japan's most famous ancient pottery, which is said to have been a traditional industry in Iga that began in the Middle Ages.

A variety of Iga-Yaki is on display, from ancient pieces to works by recent artists.

Special items related to Mr. Todo are also on display.

This is one of the famous "unusual helmets", the "black lacquered Toukan-nari Kabuto" which was given to Prince Takatora from Taiko Hideyoshi.

The armor is said to have been used for trial purposes. There are clearly bullet marks left.

The Todo family crest "Todo Tsuta". According to the storyteller, the family crests differ slightly depending on the generation.

There are many items with family crests on display, so it might be fun to take a look and compare the differences.

On the second floor, photographs of Japan's 100 most famous castles, furniture of the Todo family, calligraphy and paintings of the feudal lord, etc. are displayed.
Also on display are materials related to Katsu Kawasaki, a person who contributed to the restoration of the current castle tower.

From the third floor, the top floor, you can enjoy a great view of the city of Iga. TakatoraTodo must have longed for a view like this.

Another thing worth noting on the top floor of the castle tower is the colored paper paintings on the coffered ceiling.

It was donated by a famous person at the time to celebrate the completion of the current castle tower.
Inlaid are 46 colored paper paintings by political and cultural figures, including artist Yokoyama Taikan's ``Full Moon,'' and next to it is a painting of a falcon by Katsu Kawasaki (also known as Katsudo), for whom he invested his personal funds.

Descend the stone stairs, which have been purposely made with different steps and widths to make them difficult to climb, and head to Haiseiden, which was built in 1942 to commemorate the 300th anniversary of Basho's birth.
This was built by Mr. Katsu Kawasaki, who also built the castle tower.

The gate at the entrance to the Haiseiden. The thatched roof is very quaint.

This haiku shrine was designated as a tangible cultural property of Mie Prefecture on March 19, 2008, and as an important cultural property of the country on December 24, 2010.

It is said to be modeled after MatsuoBasho 's travels. The two-story round roof is said to represent a hat hat, the wooden plaque of the haiku shrine represents a face, the single-layer octagonal roof represents a cloak or costume, the hall represents the legs, and the pillars of the corridor represent a cane and feet.

I wouldn't have noticed it if I hadn't gone around with the storyteller...

Inside the Haisei-den, there is a life-sized statue of Basho made of Iga-Yaki. The pedestal is also all Iga-Yaki.

In addition, the woodblock prints emblazoned with the names of past winners of the ``Basho Okinen Haiku'', which is held every year, are treasured.

It will be opened to the public during the Basho Festival on October 12th, the anniversary of Basho's death, and you can enter inside.

Walk down the hill a little to the Basho Memorial Museum.

This memorial hall was built in 1959 with a generous donation from Mr. Kanbe Mannosuke.

In addition to Basho's handwritten colored paper ``Tabito to Gana Called Hatsushigura'' and his will, materials related to renga and haikai are on display.

We also hold special exhibitions with various themes four times a year. As Basho's death anniversary falls on October 12th, a special exhibition will be held in the fall.

You can feel like a haiku poet by wearing Basho's costume.

The prototype of the Basho bronze statue erected in front of Ueno City Station. Written by Tetsuzan Onishi.

Basho's travelogue. Each travel route point is illuminated.

You can also enjoy seasonal flowers in the garden.

At the entrance to the Basho Memorial Museum, the storyteller told us about an interesting tree.

Tarayo. It is said to have become the prototype for postcards.

If you scratch the underside of a leaf with something hard, such as a tree branch, a mark will appear. As time passes, it becomes darker and clearer.

It is said that in the past, when paper was hard to come by, it was used to copy sutras, and the presence of this tree is said to be proof that there was a temple in this area in the past.

This is the fruit of the Mukuroji tree.

If you look at the outer skin on the left side of the photo, you will see a black substance like the one on the right side. This is used for the black part of the feathers of the battledore.

The peeled outside was used as a detergent.

This is Taisanboku.

It is a member of the magnolia family that blooms from June to July, and produces flowers with a very pleasant fragrance. It is the largest tree flower in Japan, with a flower diameter of about 50 to 60 cm.

It is a must-see for history buffs to see the various items displayed inside the castle tower, including the stone walls that have been stacked in different ways depending on the era and the tall stone walls that boast the 1st and 2nd highest heights in Japan.
In addition, the castle tower, which was built in the Showa era and made of wood, allows you to feel the splendor of Japanese architecture.

For nature lovers, you can enjoy cherry blossoms in the spring, autumn leaves in the fall, and rare plants such as Taizanki depending on the season.

You can pick up a map at the tourist information center at the park entrance and leisurely wander around on your own without worrying about time, or the storyteller will guide you to the highlights based on three themes: history, nature, and MatsuoBasho. If you want to fully enjoy the history and nature of Iga-Ueno, we recommend walking around while listening to the stories told by the storytellers.

You can enjoy a slightly different Iga Ueno Castle.

*To apply for the cultural volunteer guide “Igaue no Storyteller Association,” please visit the Iga Ueno Tourism Association official website​